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Abercrombie Isn't as Obscure as You Think

JungYeol Kim
Sep 25, 2023
1 min read

Abercrombie Isn't Actually an Obscure Brand as you think it is. It originally started as an outdoor brand in 1892 and became Abercrombie & Fitch in 1904 with an investment from Fitch.

Ernest and Mary Welsh Hemingway on Safari

The chinos and safari jackets favored by Kennedy and Hemingway are still treasured items among vintage enthusiasts.

You can find more stories about this brand on the blog 'Overalls,' so I recommend giving it a read :

OVERALLS BLOG

FUN FACT: Hemingway purchased the gun he used to take his own life at an Abercrombie store!

Original post (Korean):https://blog.naver.com/jy0003/221586931661

Author: Jung Yeol Kim

Date Written: 2019. 7. 16.

Granpa Ralph Lauren's Beloved Item: The Original Navajo Rug

JungYeol Kim
Sep 25, 2023
3 min read

Do you recognize this very famous photograph? It's the young Doug Bihlmaier at Ralph Lauren's ranch in Colorado. Everywhere you look, it's all vintage, and Navajo rugs.

Covering a space entirely with Navajo rugs like this is beautiful, but Soobaak style leans more towards placing just one piece amidst mid-century furnishings in modern space.

It somehow seems to complement traditional Korean Hanok houses quite well, don't you think?

Navajo Rugs: Not Just Rugs, but Art

When we think of rugs, Persian carpets often come to mind. However, the United States is also known for producing excellent rugs, particularly the traditional Navajo rugs woven by Native Americans. These rugs, with their intricate patterns of zigzags, bold reds, creams, black arrows, and fishhooks, have a unique appeal. They catch the eye whether they are hanging on the walls of rustic cabins, bungalows, ranch-style homes, or modern residences. Designers like Ralph Lauren, actors like Kevin Costner and Harrison Ford, and even the owner of the modern furniture chain 'Design Within Reach' have Navajo rugs in their homes. David Roche, an American Indian art expert at the Sotheby's auction house, says that people are interested in Navajo rugs for their decorative qualities, aesthetic value, and emotional connection to the unique and captivating culture and traditions they represent. He describes Navajo rugs as exceptionally compelling textiles with cosmic appeal.

The price of Navajo rugs has seen a 15% increase in sales since the boom of Southwestern-style design in the 1980s. Prices can range from $2,000 to $3,000 for a 4x6-foot rug that takes several months to weave. Antique Navajo rugs from the 19th century have also seen their value rise. For example, a diamond-patterned rug from that era was sold at a Sotheby's auction three years ago for $401,000, which is eight times more than a similar rug sold in the preceding year.

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The origin of Navajo rugs can be traced back to the 1500s when Spanish settlers introduced sheep and long-staple wool to the Southwest region. The Navajo people expertly wove these materials into saddle blankets and shoulder wraps, which became popular among other indigenous tribes and Mexican and Anglo-American traders. These large wraps later evolved into rugs.

The dyes used to color these textiles were made by boiling plants and stones. Mixing prickly pear cactus fruits and roots with red rocks created the brownish-red color. Cream-colored wool, light brown, gray, and black backgrounds were achieved by using the wool's natural colors without dyeing. Black wool was obtained by shearing the sheep before the sun had faded their wool.

In the early 1900s, tourists flocked to Indian reservations in Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico, taking Navajo rugs home as souvenirs. To meet the demand, traders started providing Navajo weavers with synthetic dyes and commercially processed yarns, saving time and costs.

However, handwoven rugs made with natural materials and traditional methods are highly prized today. Traditional rugs retain lanolin in the wool, making them soft and heavy in texture. Among them, the most intricate pieces are considered tapestries rather than rugs. Cheap imitations use 6 strands per inch, while high-quality rugs may exceed 30 strands per inch.

Well-made rugs lie flat and even when spread out, with their edges and corners perfectly aligned. However, as they are not machine-made, perfect symmetry is not always achieved, and some weavers intentionally include imperfections. If there is a slight deviation at the edge, it is considered the "soul's mark" – a small stitched symbol of the weaver's spirit and the rug's freedom.

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[Source: The Hankook Ilbo March 9, 2004 "나바호 러그깔개(rug)는 깔개가 아니라 예술" ]

This is a vintage carpet woven by the Navajo tribe. Our New York branch manager won it at an auction and sent it to us. It seems that Han Nam-dong Soobaak Vintage is focusing more on curating "lifestyle" items, so we've been lacking in carpets and poster frames.

The color combination is in perfect Soobaak style: gray, black, brown, and beige. But upon closer examination, these colors harmonize quite well! This carpet has an ethnic yet modern feel, which is very appealing. Soon, we'll also be bringing in some (not vintage) bests from Mexico.

"YEI: A Supernatural Being Allowing Communication Between the Navajo and the Gods"

"YEI" (YeiBiChai) is a supernatural entity believed to facilitate communication between the Navajo people and the gods. It was believed that by wearing masks resembling deities and performing ceremonial dances, human dancers could summon the spirits of the gods and achieve their purposes. Yei rugs are said to have been inspired by images etched in sand in the early 20th century.

making navajo rug with loom — navajo rug making loom

Original post (Korean) : https://blog.naver.com/jy0003/221475720094

Author: Jung Yeol Kim

Written Date: 2019. 2. 27

Vintage LL Bean

JungYeol Kim
Sep 25, 2023
6 min read

1. Not Pretty but, durable, warm and waterproof attire.

No one really cares about when LL Bean was created and who made it. But I need to know. This way, I can provide consumers with just the right amount of information.

Leon Leonwood Bean, a hunter and angler, created his own boots out of necessity. Wanting to keep his feet consistently dry, he incorporated rubber soles for waterproofing and leather uppers for added durability above the ankle. He eventually commercialized the boots that served him so well, initially selling them to fellow hunters. This led to the christening of these boots as "Bean Boots" or "Maine Hunting Shoes."

[Source: Freeport는 LL Bean의 왕국| Author 빛과장]

In a nutshell, it started not as a fashion brand, but as a functional one. This aspect is similar to military attire and outdoor brands. There are no fancy details added just for style; everything serves a purpose and has a reason. Outdoor activities like fishing, camping, hunting, and hiking are just part of everyday life for Americans. It's not something only a few hobbyists do; it's something ordinary people do as part of their daily routine. It's not about "enjoying" it; it's about simply "doing" it. That's why functional clothing seamlessly became everyday wear. You don't have to be heading out for a hunting trip to don a hunting jacket; it's perfectly suitable for rainy-day grocery runs too!

2. Unconventional Yet Powerful Design

I believe in folk craftsmanship more than the grandeur artwork of virtuoso at the pinnacle of beauty. It's about staying true to the essence while being humble, functional, and sprinkled with a touch of flair.

Designs that strive to impress and capture attention may dazzle initially, but they lack lasting impact. They quickly become tiresome. In contrast, the subtle folk craftsmanship of practical, everyday designs is different. They have a lasting appeal, leaving a lasting impression that doesn't fade quickly.

The world is overflowing with designs that are eager to look cool.

The kind that says, "Look at me. Am I cool? Do I slay? If you wear me, you'll be super cool too," used to easily catch on and create a buzz, but they often disappeared within 2-3 years. Have you seen anyone sporting Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga baseball caps lately? What about the Balenciaga Triple S sneakers? Fashionistas have grown tired of designs that strive to look pretty just for the sake of it. They've seen it all, done it all. As a reaction, they've started seeking out less conventional clothing. I think Gosharubchinskiy's success played a role in this phenomenon. To put it more accurately, it's not about ugly clothes, but rather practical designs that don't care much about looking pretty, designs driven by purpose and functionality, and thus, designs that exude power. Anyway.

The world is overflowing with designs that are eager to look cool.

The kind that says, "Look at me. Am I cool? Do I slay? If you wear me, you'll be super cool too," used to easily catch on and create a buzz, but they often disappeared within 2-3 years. Have you seen anyone wearing Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga baseball caps lately? What about the Balenciaga Triple S sneakers? Fashionistas have grown tired of designs that strive to look pretty just for the sake of it. They've seen it all, done it all. As a reaction, they've started seeking out less conventional clothing. I think Gosharubchinskiy's success played a role in this phenomenon. To put it more accurately, it's not about ugly clothes, but rather practical designs that don't care much about looking pretty, designs driven by purpose and functionality, and thus, designs that exude power. Anyway.

Fashion enthusiast turned their attention to brands like brands like Patagonia, Arc'teryx, Original Military, New Balance, and Asics, which might not have been considered the coolest choices. As a result, "fashion-people" are now imitating their fashion style. In reality, from a corporate perspective, it's more appealing to target the majority of fashion-conscious consumers rather than a small group of trendsetters. Companies have naturally added design elements to stimulate the preferences of these fashion aficionados, leading to a subtle dilution of the essence for brands that remain committed to their core values without relying on ostentatious trends.

3. Soobaak Curates Vintage LL Bean

The reason why Soobaak Vintage appreciates vintage LL Bean is that, compared to brands like Patagonia or Filson, it's still relatively untouched by the hands of fashion-conscious consumers. That being said, not all LL Bean products are favored; there are just a few items that are particularly beloved:

1. Bag

This heavy canvas tote bag was originally designed for carrying ice.

In Japanese vintage shops, this beautiful color combinations like 'green x navy,' can fetch prices ranging from 300,000 to 400,000 Korean Won (about $350 to $450), depending on their condition. LL Bean still produces and sells this bag today, but it's not as "heavy"as it used to be back in the day.

This duffle bag, which doesn't offer any storage space inside or outside, is oddly charming. Perhaps because it's so convenient for trips to the gym, it's also known as a gym bag.

I particularly admired the combination of three elements: the color of the main canvas, the strap that runs across the body, and the leather handles. It's not overly flashy, yet it exudes a cool vibe. The leather reinforcements used generously on the bottom add to its appeal.

Bryceland even copied the design of tote bag (yellow/green/brown) and sold it like crazy.

The original LL Bean tote typically went for around 300,000 won (about 350USD) in Japanese vintage shops, but I've never seen one in Korean vintage shops. They remained faithful to the form of the bag, with the only design element being that seagull-shaped handle.

2. Shoes

Duck boots (or rain boots) = LL Bean. It all starts with this, both because of its origin and the fact that it retains the original design without unnecessary embellishments to look prettier. I haven't bought a pair yet, but I definitely want to collect a few.

3. Hat/Cap

f I could find those vintage logo-embossed trucker hats, I'm confident I'd sell them all, but (somehow) I just can't seem to locate them. I managed to find and sell one bucket hat made of Harris Tweed on the outside and Gore-Tex on the inside. I plan to collect more.

4. Clothing

A crewneck sweater with a bird's eye pattern. It's made in Norway with a blend of 80% wool and 20% rayon. Sweaters of this kind are often referred to as "fisherman knit" because they were designed to keep workers warm when facing harsh sea winds. With its loose fit and thick texture, it's hard not to appreciate its coziness.This season, you probably won't find many stores selling LL Bean bird's eye crewneck sweaters. We didn't just stumble upon one in a pile of knits; we carefully selected and curated them, making sure they were just right.

Compare the Uniqlo lightweight padding and its insulation.

You have to reach a certain level to say, "lightweight and warm."

Chino pants + shaggy sweater + this duck down padding vest = it's a classic.

We bought several of these from LL Bean at first, but they didn't sell well initially.

However, we've sold them all bit by bit, and now there's only one left. Time to gather more!

I'm confident that this item, too, was one of the top sellers for Soobaak this season.

Honestly, it would be more appropriate to carry such subtle brands in a subtle retail setting, but collecting them one by one made it challenging to lower the purchase price.

I'll have to work harder and be more resourceful while selling these pieces :)

4. A Slight Difference

There's a fine line between brands that say, "You don't have to show off to be stylish. But it's okay if you don't get our style," and those that are just plain unremarkable.

Soobaak rarely dabbles in Woolrich, but Aquascutum has its charm, while Daks doesn't quite make the cut. J. Press and Brooks Brothers are spot-on, but Tommy Hilfiger, well, not so much. Soobaak Vintage often shouts, "Pyongyang Cold Noodle Swag." (this term will appear a lot in this blog ) Pyongyang cold noodles taste great even when you've just emptied a bowl, but they taste even better when you've paid the bill, put on your shoes, and are about to leave the restaurant. They taste even better when you're in the car in the parking lot heading home. And on that night, when you crawl under your cozy blanket, they taste even, even better. You find yourself wanting more the next day. It's not about getting tired of it after the first bite, but about a fashion that tastes better as time goes by, leaving a lasting impression. Can Soobaak Vintage's curation bring this to life? We'll see!

Original post (Korean): https://blog.naver.com/jy0003/221446310195

Author: Jung Yeol Kim

Date Written: 2019. 1. 20.